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*UPDATE - 01/11/2025 * We are really delighted to let you know that we are once again able to sell our Digital PDF Patterns within the EU thanks to our lovely EU representative. All details can be now found on our patterns. Since GPSR 2024 came into effect on 13th December, we’ve been in a state of limbo at Little Fig, whilst we figure out what we need to do as a business to stay compliant with EU law. It’s been really hard to find out what the new regs mean for our digital products, and what we might need to change around our practice to continue offering our patterns for sale in the EU and NI. Accurate information is quite hard to pin down, so lots of us as pattern designers are doing the best we can to interpret the government guidance, and hoping that more information comes to light in the near future.  We wanted to update you as to our decisions so far, so that you can hopefully understand why you may not be able to currently purchase the pattern you wanted, depending on where in the world you’re based. At this stage, we are able to continue to sell our existing patterns, through the platforms we already use, to anywhere in the world. Moving forward, as we don’t yet know the requirements in terms of documentation and EU representation, we’re really sorry but we can’t sell our patterns to residents of the EU and NI. We’ve also had to remove our free pattern downloads temporarily from the website, as the new regulations also cover products offered for free. We really hope that this will only be a temporary issue, though, and we’re working hard behind the scenes to complete the documentation needed, so that we can make our patterns available to everyone again. We’ll update you as soon as we’ve got news on this.  In the meantime, we’ve used the guidance available to help us update our existing safety information, the updated version of this can be found here…..  We know this is really frustrating, and hope our EU and NI customers will stick with us whilst we figure everything out.   Love, Michelle & Charis x

I’m quite sad to be writing this, as the cardigan-making has come to an end! It’s finished and fabulous, and I’m kind of hoping it stays cooler for a while, so I can wear it for a while before we warm up for Summer. This has been a really rewarding piece to make, for so many different reasons. Firstly, I’ve got the satisfaction that it’s made from leftover yarns, and I didn’t need to purchase anything new to make it, but have a really cosy, warm cardigan to wear, rather than a drawer full of scrappy pieces. The colour combinations have been very interesting, but overall it’s made a really pretty, colourful fabric, and I’m really pleased with how it looks. This was a very slow make, due to my lumbering slow method of knitting colourwork, and the huge number of ends to sew in, but taking my time has been a great exercise in patience and practising mindfulness. An unexpected pleasure has been the flood of memories that have come back, thinking of what those little scrappy balls were leftover from, some many years ago. There was some lovely plum-coloured 4ply, that I used in this cardigan held double, that was left over from the first cardigan I made myself as an adult, and lots of oddments from clothes I made Charis when I was pregnant with her, all the way back in 1995. So the cardigan means more to me than just the sum of its scraps, its had knitted into it lots of memories of making those things - the baby clothes I made when I wasn’t very good at knitting, the red poncho I made for myself then unpicked the whole thing because I hated it, the bright blue I used to make a dress for Mary in a never-finished Nativity set (I got fed up after making Mary, Joseph & Jesus!) the tea cosy I made for Luke in the shape of a tank, back when we first met and I was trying to impress him with my crafty skills! I started out making this cardigan, thinking it would just be a one-off project, an exercise in restraint and patience for Lent, but I ended up getting a lot more from it than I thought. I’ve also had a request from Charis & Fig, to make some for them. I’ve not agreed yet, but maybe I will, when I’ve got over having to sew all those ends in, and maybe I’ll write up the pattern too, in case anyone else, like me, has a little hidden stash of old bits and pieces, that if mixed together would make a wonderfully colourful and cosy cardigan. -Michelle xx

There’s something incredibly special about hand stitched projects like tapestry, needlepoint, embroidery or cross stitch, knowing the hours and dedication that went into making such a treasured project. Michelle recently finished this fabulous vintage tapestry kit, and instead of mounting and framing, we thought it would be a great piece to turn into something a little different – a cushion cover. If you don’t happen to have a hoard of vintage German tapestry kits like Michelle does, this project will also work with other similar pieces like finished cross stitch, or embroidery work. You can frequently (sadly I always think as they take such time and love to create!) find projects like these in charity shops, and these will need a gentle hand wash and press before you begin. Follow below for a quick and easy method... 1.       Cut out the panel for the front of your cushion from your tapestry or project. Ideally you need to have about 2cm around the border of your project to allow for generous seams for the wear it will undergo when it is sat on or fluffed. If you are worried about the fabric your project is stitched on fraying or coming apart, you may wish to overlock the raw edge to help avoid this. Depending on your project, it will likely be a rectangle or square. 2.      Next cut out your two back panels. You need two as you are going to create an easy envelope style back – no need to go hunting for a zip for this project!! The first panel should be half the width of the front panel, and the second panel should be ¾ of the width of the front panel. 3.      Hem one side of both of these panels, this will create a neat edge for your envelope opening. 4.      Place your front panel piece down, right side facing up (so you will see the correct side of your tapestry or project facing up). Next place down the longer back panel, wrong side facing up. This should be placed over the left side of your front panel, and a small area of the project should still be showing on the right. 5.      Lay the other back panel over the other side of the front panel, covering the area that is still showing, lining up the raw edges. The hemmed edges you created earlier should be overlapping in the middle. 6.      Pin in place. Do not pin along the finished opening. 7.      Sew around all four sides of your rectangle/square, leaving no opening. Be sure to backstitch when starting and finishing your seam, using at least a 2cm seam allowance 8.     Turn your cushion cover out the right way through your envelope flap, and poke out the corners so they point nicely. You may wish to trim away some of the seam allowance for a neater shape, but be aware this will affect the durability of your cushion depending on the fabrics used. Press if required, ideally using a pressing cloth to avoid damaging the stitching on your project. 9.      Insert your cushion inner through the envelope opening in the back. And you're done! I for one am incredibly jealous that Michelle gets to have this super cute vintage cushion in her living room! Tag us in your cushion projects @little.fig.handmade on Instagram if you try out this DIY! - Charis

Well I’ve reached the underarms, and the biggest challenge so far has been to keep to the promise to sewing in the ends as I work. If you’re familiar with our knitting patterns, you’ll know that I like to go for as little sewing as possible, so this has definitely upped the commitment level with this Lent undertaking. I’m still really loving the mindfulness and therapeutic properties of this project, though, and now I’m on the sleeves, I’m feeling much more optimistic that this might be finished in time for Easter. I’m working both the sleeves together. I didn’t want them to have a restricting fit, so I have made them quite wide. I’m not sure yet if it’ll be too wide, and I could end up adjusting the final pattern. But I know I’m not going to be pulling these back, when they’ve taken so long to get to this point! I began with two mesh bags full of scraps to work with, and I’m down to one basket. I’m not sure yet if I’ll need to bring in another odd ball or two – I don’t think so, I’ll know by the time I get the arms ready to attach to the body. The next update will be when the arms and body are all joined together, to finish the cardigan in one piece. I’ve been playing around with ideas for the raglans. I haven’t decided yet on whether to go with a standard raglan, or to create more of a dropped shoulder. I’ll let you know in the next update! Michelle x

Linen is one of my favourite fabrics to work with - it holds its shape well, but creates comfortable, cool garments that can be dressed up or down. Children's clothes made from Linen are ready for all the rough and tumble of play, and I've had the pleasure of making some rather fantastic skirts and dresses that are full of volume for little ones to wear to events. This Ultimate Guide to Linen Fabric is designed to help you feel confident when choosing Linen to sew with, and maybe find out some things you didn't know about Linen fabric and its blends. Linen is made from the fibres of the Flax plant, that is most commonly grown in Europe. After the Flax plant is cut, the stem is soaked to remove the soft parts of the stem, exposing the tough fibres. These are then woven into fabric. There have been some Egyptian Linen fibres dated back to 4,500BC, but it is not accurately known when it was first developed – however it is said to be one of the oldest cellulosic (made from cellulose) fibres. Linen is characterized by its slubbed, raised texture, giving a natural and earthy feel. Some other fabrics may be described as a ‘Linen Look’ fabric if they have similar properties. Linen blends and 100% Linen fabrics can have very different properties depending on the percentages of the fibres in the fabric. Benefits of Linen ·       Keeps you cool ·       Strong ·       Durable – it can last a lifetime! ·       Gets better looking and handles better with each wash ·       Available in a variety of weights, blends and colours ·       Has a natural lustre ·       Moth resistant ·       Resistant to the alkalis in detergents ·       Quick drying ·       Lint free ·       Sheds surface dirt ·       Resists stains ·       Good shape retention – strong when dry but even stronger when wet! ·       Isn’t damaged by direct sunlight ·       Sustainable to produce ·       Wicks sweat away from the body ·       Said to have a light massaging effect on skin making it comfortable to wear Disadvantages of Linen ·       It wrinkles easily ·       Can yellow with age ·       Frays on seams ·       Some 100% Linen fabrics are too stiff for dressmaking Types of Linen There are many different types and blends of Linen Fabric – here are a few you are likely to encounter when fabric shopping, and some of their characteristics to look out for… Lightweight Linen ·       Can be so lightweight that it is almost transparent, or see through when used for a garment ·       Slubbed with a smoother surface than Enzyme Washed Linen ·       Not always pre-treated ·       100% Linen Great to make; tops, blouses, some dresses (items will likely need lining) Sorona Linen (Light to Medium Weight) ·       A Linen blend – 45% Linen 22% Viscose 18% Sorona 15% Cotton ·       This is a semi man-made fibre which relies on a 35% plant base ·       It takes less energy to produce than other man-made fibres ·       Offers stretch and recovery without the need for the fibre to be blended with Spandex or Elastane ·       It is more resistant than 100% Linen to wrinkling and creasing ·       Textured like 100% Linen ·       Drapey with good handle ·       Opaque Great to make; tops, blouses, dresses, skirts, trousers, jumpsuits Viscose Linen (Light to Medium Weight) ·       A Linen Blend – 75% Viscose 25% Linen (this can vary) ·       Textured slub finish ·       Opaque ·       Drapey with good handle Great to make; shirts, blouses, tops, dresses, jumpsuits, trousers, skirts Cotton Linen (Light to Medium Weight) ·       Comes in varying blends that can affect the weight ·       Holds shape well ·       Structured but not stiff ·       Textured slub finish Great to make; tops, blouses, shirts, skirts, loose dresses Enzyme Washed Linen (Medium Weight) ·       Pre washed with enzymes, which softens the fibres in a less harsh and more environementally friendly way than chemicals might ·       Textured slub finish ·       100% Linen ·       Slightly structured, perfect for ‘boxy’ garments Great to make; trousers, jumpsuits, overalls, dungarees, skirts, lightweight jackets, blazers, tops and dresses Ramie (Medium to Heavy Weight) Ramie is not a Linen fabric, however it has very similar properties and production process, so will likely be listed with Linen fabrics for sale – which is why we have included it here! ·       Like Linen, but made from the stem of a Nettle Plant (China Grass) ·       Slubbed texture, but more prominent than Linen ·       Thicker and more structured than 100% Linen – but not stiff ·       Opaque ·       Good for boxy, structured garments Great to make; trousers, jumpsuits, dungarees, overalls, shorts, jackets, blazers Things to Consider When Choosing Linen Linen fibres will relax and react to natural body heat, so it is important to understand how this will influence the final fit of your garment. The most affected areas of the body with regards to fit are; the neckline, waistline, shoulder seams, seat (bottom!) area and the knees. These are areas that have an increase amount of movement and so will put more strain on the fibres, resulting in baggy knees or a pulling neckline. Some solutions to these fit issues can include; ·       Using tape on the shoulder seams to maintain shaping ·       Bias binding or stay stitching the neckline to avoid pulling or stretching ·       Line the sleeves or seat of a garment to reduce the impact on these areas Cutting Linen Linen does not have a nap, and so there is no need to consider the ‘direction’ of the fabric when cutting out. This is of course unless you are using a directional or patterned printed Linen, which would need some consideration to make the most out of the pattern or to pattern match. Extra fabric will likely be required to pattern match or for directional prints. The best tools for cutting Linen is a sharp pair of fabric scissors or a rotary cutter – it can be prone to fraying, especially lighter weight Linens, so a clean cut edge with reduce this. Needles to use with Linen Either a 80/12 or a 90/14 Universal Machine Needle is suitable for use when sewing Linen fabrics. It can vary depending on the weight of the Linen, so consult your sewing machine instructions if you are working with a particularly Light or Heavyweight Linen. Replacing your machine needle before a new project is also recommended -  but we know how easy it can be to forget this! For hand sewing, a sharp, fine needle is best. Threads to use with Linen The best thread to use with Linen is an ‘all purpose’ Polyester thread, as this is strong and helps the seams keep their shape. Finishing Linen Seams As Linen Is so prone to fraying once cut, you will need to finish the seams of your project if you do not want it to unravel! If you do not have an overlocker, you can zig-zag stitch along the seams, although this may be prone to fraying still and look messy. Seams may be bound for a neater finish without an overlocker. The best option is a 3 or 4 thread overlocked edge. Machine Settings for Sewing Linen When sewing Linen, it can be beneficial to shorten your stitch length slightly, as again this stabilizes the stitch line. A stitch length of 2.0mm – 2.5mm is recommended, with a  looser tension of 4/5. This will vary depending on your machine, so it can be helpful to do a test swatch with these settings and adjusting appropriately. Linen Garment Aftercare Washing The best way to wash your Linen Garments is on a cool machine wash with a mild detergent. If your garment is being washed with other items, you may want to pop it in a mesh bag to avoid snags. While Linen is fairly hardy, it can show up damage more prominently and also can snag more easily if it is a loosely woven type. Avoid using too much detergent or product as this can create a sticky film over your fabric. Some people even suggest to avoid using fabric softener as the Linen will soften with each wash regardless. Try not to wash your garment after every wear – this will help your item last even longer. If there is light markings or dirt, spot clean this with a damp cloth where possible. If you have stubborn stains, it can be best to hand wash and pre-treat your garment, agitating the stain with a soft toothbrush, before hand or machine washing. Be sure to use a detergent that you would usually use on your Linen garments. Drying It is always best to air dry Linen garments. Not only will this make your item last longer, but it will also prevent shrinkage that occurs at high heat. If you must use a tumble dryer, use a low heat, short setting and remove your garment as soon as it is dry. Some dryers have a Linen setting. Pressing A steamer is invaluable when you have Linen garments – the pure satisfaction when you can just steam away all the wrinkles! Ironing with lots of steam is fine too, but for a quick and easy refresh, steaming whilst hanging is the best option. This also prevents any scorching or melting to the surface of the garment, which causes it to lose its lustre – this can happen especially if the Linen is pre-treated. Storing The best way to store your Linen garments is to hang them, ideally on a padded hanger, to maximise airflow and prevent further wrinkles. The padded hanger will also reduce stretch around your shoulders and neckline. If folding or storing your garments away for the season, fold neatly and store in Cotton or other breathable containers or bags, to avoid the material becoming damp or sweating – this can lead to mildew. Patterns perfect for Linen... We hope you found this guide helpful - Happy sewing! -Charis x

I’ve been making very slow progress with the cardigan this week. I knit in that very English “throwing” way, so switching colour every stitch is quite a slow process. I’ve watched some videos, and tried to work in a more continental style, holding a colour in each hand, or each colour wrapped around a different finger, but having knit “my way” for over 3 decades, this is one new trick this old dog can’t learn. So my slow, ploddy, throwing style is the way forward, the very slow way forward! I’ve found that using up all the tiny scraps and oddments to make this cardigan has been very therapeutic, and I’ve stuck to my promise to not buy any yarn. It hasn’t stopped me “window shopping” though, and I’ve eyed up some very lovely yarns that I’d love to buy, to fill the space created by using all of these odd pieces! So far, no purchases though! The weaving in of the ends has been fun – I’m still doing them as I go, but I found that the first batch I did, I was probably a bit enthusiastic in securing them, and the fabric is quite stiff and bulky for the first few cms. at each end. I’m now trying to be a little more delicate, so that the ends don’t add as much bulk to the edges. We’ve now got pockets! I knitted 2 plain squares – I figured that as they’re down inside the pocket, they don’t need to follow the pattern of the cardigan, so I just used a dark lilac that I have a bigger ball of. At least there aren’t loads of ends to sew in from those, just the long cast off tail that I used to whip stitch the pocket in place at the back. I think the next update will be when I reach the underarms, so that there’s something new to show you – I’m not sure it’ll be finished by Easter, let’s see how we get on! -Michelle x

The Daisy Dress is a true 'old favourite' of ours and we just love how versatile it is - perfect for lightweight summer sews or cosy winter makes. We usually make Fig a variety for each season, so we wanted to share a few of our favourite looks as inspiration for you too. The Daisy is a comfy, slightly oversized, simple girls dress with a variety of different collar options and a full swishy skirt that every girl needs! You can also choose between a long or short sleeve option, with an elasticated cuff to keep those wrists warm. It buttons/fastens at the back, and can be made from pretty much any non-stretch fabric - it just depends how brave you are....Chiffon anyone? Buy your Daisy Dress Pattern here. Stripes Dresses: Mint, Rainbow, Blue Fabrics: 1 , 2 , 3, 4 Spring is the perfect time to experiment with pastel stripes, or go full blown candy rainbow. The Daisy would look fabulous in a pin stripe or more casual in a thicker rainbow stripe. These are all light-medium weight fabrics, perfect for layering as the weather gets a little warmer. Style with some simple brown or white sandals, a crochet cotton cardi and a floppy sunhat for the perfect Easter look. To add some extra detail, finish your ruffle collar with a coordinating ric-rac or lace! Denim Dresses: 1, 2, 3, 4 Fabrics: 1, 2, 3, 4 Denim is the perfect fabric to create a piece that can be worn regardless of the season. We can see a Denim Daisy with a contrast collar working well with tights and a chunky knit in Winter and with some cool sandals and sunnies in Spring or Summer. We also loved this patchwork Denim style which would be great for using up scraps! For a Daisy that isn't too heavyweight, we recommend a Denim Chambray. Broderie Anglaise Dresses: 1, 2, 3 Fabrics: 1, 2, 3, 4 One that might need to wait for warmer weather, or a holiday, is Broderie Anglaise - sometimes called Eyelet fabric. This creates a lightweight and breezy dress, which may need a lining if you aren't layering it up or wearing it over swimwear. Make the perfect holiday dress, beach cover-up or dainty wedding guest outfit for your little one using Broderie Anglaise and the Daisy pattern. Also, it doesn't just come in white, you can find it in a rainbow range of colours - but there is something about a crisp white cotton dress! We hope this provided a little bit of Daisy Dress sewing inspiration - if you don't have the pattern yet, we offer it as a PDF bundle or individual PDF patterns here. Share your Daisy Dress makes with us over on Instagram @little.fig.handmade - we can't wait to see what you make! -Charis x

For Lent this year, I decided it was time to observe it with something that really would be a true challenge. I’ve previously abstained from some of my favourite treats, but those never really felt like a proper emotional and mental challenge. So this year I decided to abstain from buying yarn, which presents a tougher than usual challenge, as my favourite yarn company have a cracking Spring sale on, and I’d usually be spending a small fortune stocking up on my favourites. In addition, I’ve taken on the challenge of making a cardigan using any oddments, dye lot ends and scraps to make a cardigan, to ensure that none of those lovely bits and pieces go to waste. In my first week, I’ve cast on a 2x2 rib, using a colour that I know I have a few balls of, so can use the same colour on pockets and trims. I’m then working in stocking stitch for the main section of the cardigan, which is being worked in one piece, so I’ve had to add in the extension on the circular needles! All the rows are being worked from the right side, as it doesn’t really matter if I don’t work any wrong side purl rows, as all colours are only being used for one row. On my first attempt, I tried to get all the way across one row with one colour, but I quickly changed my mind on this for 2 reasons. One – some of the scraps are so small they wont do a whole row, and two – it actually didn’t look very pretty having such a narrow stripe of each colour. So back to the top of the rib, and this time, I’m working each row alternating between two colours. This way, even if one of the pieces runs out, I can start a new one in a similar colour and it doesn’t stand out that I’ve had a colour change. It’s also pretty cute to look at. One downside of working with all these small pieces of colour – the ends!!!! So, I’m going to make sure that once I’ve worked a couple more cm. I weave all those ends in as I go (in the spirit of the good intentions I started the challenge with!). I’ll update next week with my progress. -Michelle x

We sometimes get questions about how easy it would be to adapt a knitting pattern to different yarn weights, and this is something that I do all the time. It’s not possible with every pattern, but it is with most, it can just take a bit of trial and error to get the cast-on stitch count right. I’ve been meaning to find time for ages now, to make myself a Blyth hat & mittens set, so I thought this might be a nice one to try, and to write about the tricky bits - this knitting pattern uses the great technique of “thrumming”, adding small pieces of roving or feltable wool, at regular intervals throughout your knitting. Our pattern is worked in DK or Aran, and the hat sizes are quite generous, to allow for some additional bulk with the back of the thrums making a fleecy lining. However I thought I’d play around with the pattern a little, and see what happened if used a chunkier yarn. I had lots of odd balls of 4ply off white - all different dye lots, so I thought I’d try 4 strands together, on 6mm needles, and see what happened. My first challenge - figuring out the number of stitches to cast on. After quite a few false starts, I settled on the same number of stitches as given in the pattern for the smallest child size, but worked to all the lengths of medium adult. I’m not a huge fan of working with chunky yarn, but I must admit I enjoyed how quickly the hat and mittens worked up. I finished the set, but I wasn’t really happy that they still seemed very big to me, even in such a small stitch count. So I went back to the drawing board, reduced the stitch count even more, and had another go. This time I’m much happier with it. The mittens feel quite bulky still, but once those thrums felt up a bit, there won’t be such thickness to the fabric. I still feel though, that the mittens pattern doesn’t adapt as well to a yarn change, as you’re already working on quite a small number of stitches, so it’s tricky to get the definition in the thumb and fingertip shaping. Now for the finishing touches - a massive pompom, and of course, a string to join the mittens together to thread though my coat sleeves! So just to sum up, if you’d like to give the pattern a try but use chunky yarn, I think it works well with the hat, not so well with the mittens. You may need to play around with your cast-on stitch count to get the right fit, but a good start point is to calculate approx. 2/3 of the stitches you would have cast on for DK, and then work to all the same lengths for the size you should be working. If you’d like to give the Blyth pattern a try, you’ll find it just here. Please let me know how you get on, and if you need any help. If you do try out this technique, be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! We'd love to see what you create! - Michelle

Everyone knows how busy Father Christmas is right now, so naturally when Grandma Fig got the call from his elves, to help out with a stylish handmade accessory for a little someone’s new bike for Christmas, out came the crochet hook! This quick little make works up in a few hours, in chunky yarn. I’ve used cotton, as this helped give me a more rigid texture. If you don’t have any chunky yarn, you could double up with 2 strands of DK for a similar weight, so you could use up lots of scraps and oddments – a great stash-buster! You could even experiment with raffia or t-shirt yarns, for a more “woven” effect, but keep the hook size small as this helps with the rigidity of the basket sides. You could also add a D shaped cut out of thick card, or other rigid material, into the base of the basket, to help hold its shape too. The finished basket is more suited to a child-sized bike, but you can start off with more stitches, and work an extra round of bobbles, if you’d like to make a bigger one. Read on below to find out how to create your own, or download the PDF pattern here for an easier to read, printable version... Materials: Chunky Yarn: 2 x 50g if making in one solid colour, 5 x 50g if making as in photo with one main colour and 4 stripes. 2 buttons 2cm diameter Hook: 4.00mm Stitch markers Information: This pattern is suitable for confident beginners. The basket measures approx. 23cm from side to side when laid flat. If you would like the basket to be larger you could increase the start chain length in multiples of 3 Crab stitch is used around the top edge, to create a firmer edging, but if you find this stitch tricky, you can slip stitch into each stitch around on the last row, to create an alternative ridged row. Abbreviations & stitch info: UK terminology is used. DC – Double crochet Tr - Treble HTR - Half treble Ch - Chain SS - Slip stitch PS (Popcorn stitch) – 4Tr into same stitch, remove hook from working loop, and replace hook to pass through 1st Tr, and back through working loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook. Crab stitch (reverse DC stitch) - Ch1, insert hook through stitch to the right, YO and pull through, YO and complete DC, insert hook into stitch to the right, YO and pull through, YO and complete DC. Pattern: Main basket Chain 17. Round 1: DC into 2nd chain from hook, DCx14, (2DC, Ch1, 2DC) into final chain, DCx14 back along the opposite side of the chain, (2DC, Ch, DC) into first stitch to complete the round. SS to join. Round 2: Ch2 (counts as 1st DC of round), 2DC into same stitch, DCx17, (2DC, Ch 2DC) into chain space at the end, DCx18 back along the opposite side, (2DC, Ch) into chain space at the end, SS to join. Round 3: Ch2 (counts as 1st DC of round), 2DC into same stitch, DCx21, (2DC, Ch, 2DC) into chain space at the end, DCx22 back along opposite side, (2DC, Ch) into chain space at end, SS to join. On the next round, you will begin shaping this piece, which will form the basket base, by working longer stitches on one side than the other, to create a slight “D” shape. Round 4: Ch2 (counts as 1st DC of round), 2DC into same stitch, DCx25, (2DC, Ch, 2DC) into chain space at the end, DCx3, HTRx3, Trx13, HTRx3, DCx3, (2DC, Ch) into chain space at end, SS to join. Round 5: Ch2 (counts as 1st DC of round), 2DC into same stitch, DCx29, (2DC, Ch, 2DC) into chain space at the end, DCx3, HTRx4, Trx16, HTRx4, DCx3, (2DC, Ch) into chain space at end, SS to join. Round 6: Ch2 (counts as 1st DC of round), 2DC into same stitch, DCx33, (2DC, Ch, 2DC) into chain space at the end, DCx3, HTRx4, Trx20 HTRx4, DCx3, (2DC, Ch) into chain space at end, SS to join. Rounds 7-10: 4 rounds of tight DC into each stitch and both chain spaces. This will start to form the side wall of the basket (78DC) On the next round, you will begin the popcorn rounds. The pattern is written for changing colours for each bobble stripe. Change colour Round 11: Ch3, PS into same stitch, Sk2, Ch2, PS, Sk2, Ch2, repeat from * to end, SS to join. Round 12: Ch1, *DC into top of PS, DCx2 into chain space, repeat from * to end, SS to join. Change colour Repeat rounds 11 & 12 Change colour Repeat rounds 11 & 12 Change colour Repeat rounds 11 & 12 You now have 4 rounds of bobble stripes. Change to original colour used for basket base. Place markers so that they are both located on the back of the basket (the flatter side of the “D”, with 7 bobbles between them. Round 19: Work one round of DC. Round 20: Work one round of DC, DC2tog across each stitch with markers. Rounds 21&22: Repeat rounds 19& 20 – this causes the two back “corners” of the basket to pinch in slightly. Round 23: Crab stitch all around top of basket, fasten off yarn. Straps With the back of the basket facing you, working into round 21 of the basket, DC 6 stitches around the post of the 6 DCs immediately after the marker on the right. Work back and forth, in DC, until strap measures 13cm. Next row (make buttonhole): DCx2, Sk2, Ch2, DCx2 Next row, DCx2, 2DC into chain space, DCx2 Work one more row, then fasten off. Work a second strap in the same way, but in the 6 DCs immediately before the marker on the left. Finishing: Sew buttons in place, on the inside back of the basket, approx. 3cm down from the crab stitch edging. Sew in loose ends. Click here to find the free pattern …… and please share your finished baskets – tag us in your makes @little.fig.handmade on Instagram if you can! - Michelle Little Fig Patterns All rights reserved 2023. This pattern is for personal use only. You can print this pattern for your own use but cannot distribute for free or resell electronically or by hard copy. You may sell your makes from a Little Fig pattern if you sell on a small scale – please credit us as pattern designer. Little Fig patterns may not be used commercially or for mass production.

This cotton rainbow sun hat is a little blast from the past, as it's inspired by a hat Charis used to have when she was little! I loved making it up in rainbow colours, perfect for matching all of your summer outfits, but the pattern can easily be adapted to do a solid colour block, or different sized stripes of colour. I made it from Drops Paris cotton, so it can be put in the washing machine when it inevitably gets covered in ice cream! Follow this post to make this Rainbow Crochet Sun Hat in size 0-6 Months, or head over to our website to purchase the pattern with the full size range. Size 0-6 Months fits an average head size of 46cm. The full paid-for pattern gives sizes up to adult. Difficulty level: Beginner You will Need: Aran Yarn: e.g. Drops Paris Cotton 1 ball or small quantity each colour, (7 used in photograph). You can use any number and range of colours you choose, but to create the narrow stripes, only work one row in each colour, then change, and repeat the colour sequence as necessary. If you work a plain one colour hat, you will need 1 ball. Hook: 4.5mm Stitch marker Information: Instructions are given based on average head measurements, however, as there can be a wide variation in head size, please check head size first. This free version of the pattern includes one size, 0-6m, however a paid version of this pattern is available giving sizes up to adult. Crab stitch is used around the brim, to create a nice, ridged brim, but if you find this stitch tricky, you can slip stitch into each stitch around on the last row, to create an alternative ridged row. Abbreviations & stitch info: Tr - Treble HTR - Half treble Ch - Chain SS - Slip stitch Crab stitch (reverse DC stitch) - Ch1, insert hook through stitch to the right, YO and pull through, YO and complete DC, insert hook into stitch to the right, YO and pull through, YO and complete DC. Pattern: Remember to switch colours every row. To avoid confusion, the following instructions are broken into sections after round 4, according to size. Make a magic ring. Round 1: Ch3 (this counts as your first treble), Tr12, SS to join. (13 Tr) Round 2: Ch3, Tr in same stitch, 2Tr in each stitch, SS to join. (26Tr) Round 3: Ch3, Tr in same stitch, Tr in next stitch, *2Tr in next stitch, Tr in next stitch, repeat from * to end, SS to join. (39Tr) Round 4: Ch3, Tr in same stitch, Tr in next 2 stitches, *2Tr in next stitch, Tr in next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end, SS to join (52Tr) Round 5: Ch3, Tr in same stitch, Tr in next 8 stitches, *2Tr in next stitch, Tr in next 8 stitches, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2Tr in next stitch, Tr in next 6 stitches to end, SS to join (58Tr) Round 6-12: Ch3, Tr in next and each stitch to end, SS to join round. Round 13 (ribbon band): Ch2, HTR in next 2 stitches, Ch1, Skip 1, HTR in next 3 stitches, Ch1, skip 1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, HTR to end, SS to join (58 stitches) Round 14: Ch2, HTR in same stitch, *HTR in next 6 stitches, 2HTR in next stitch, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, HTR in next 2 stitches, SS to join (66 stitches) Round 15: Ch2, HTR in next 2 stitches, *2HTR in next stitch, HTR in next 5 stitches, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 2HTR in next stitch, HTR in last 2 stitches, SS to join (77 stitches) Round 16: Ch2, HTR in same stitch, *HTR in next 6 stitches, 2HTR in next stitch, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, HTR in each stitch to end, SS to join (88 stitches) Round 17: Ch2, HTR in each stitch around, SS to join. Round 18: Ch1, crab stitch in each stitch around (see notes above). Fasten off yarn, sew in ends. You can use any 1cm wide ribbon through the band or create a rainbow “ribbon” from matching yarn. To create the rainbow “ribbon” - take 1 strand of each colour, approx 3m in length. Knot together at one end. Secure the knot end so that it cannot spin as you are twisting the strands (ask someone to hold it or trap it in a drawer). Twist the yarn to create a rope, keep twisting until you start to see the rope “kink”, then before it twists together, hold your finger at roughly the midpoint of the rope, then allow the rope to twist together to make a shorter, doubled up rope length. Undo the knot you did at the beginning, and re-tie to include all strands. Knot at the other end too, then thread through the hat band holes, tying in a bow at the front. Trim as needed so the bow is not drooping over the brim. For safety, you could secure (by sewing) the ribbon at several points around the band, so it cannot be removed. And now you have a fabulous rainbow sun hat! If you do make our Rainbow Crochet Sun Hat be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! - Michelle Little Fig Patterns All rights reserved 2022. This pattern is for personal use only. You can print this pattern for your own use, but cannot distribute the pattern for free or resell electronically or by hard copy.

We had a lot of questions on how we made this fabulous rainbow ric-rac trim for our Denim Mollie Skirt, so we've put together a quick tutorial on how to make it yourself at home, perfect for brightening up any make, or something old that needs a new lease of life. We used Drops Safran 4ply cotton on a 3mm hook, but you could just as easily use heavier yarn and a larger hook for a more chunky effect. If you’d like to give it a try, and make some ric-rac of your own, check out the simple instructions below. Instructions: Using red, chain to 1.7 times the length required (it’s better to go too long, and be able to unpick, than to try to add on afterwards), in multiples of 10 plus 2 stitches. (In red) Row 1: Tr into 3rd chain from hook. Tr into next chain, *Tr into next 3 chains, Tr3tog over next 3 chains, Tr into next 3 chains, 3Tr into next chain, repeat from * to end, with 2Tr in final chain. Bind off. (In orange) Row 2: Attach yarn at beginning of row (so that all colour stripes are running the same way, not back and forth). Ch3 (counts as first Tr), Tr into first stitch, *Tr into next 3 stitches, Tr3tog over next 3 stitches, Tr into next 3 stitches, 3Tr into next stitch, repeat from * to end, with 2Tr in final stitch. Bind off. Continue in this way until you have worked all your rainbow colours. Now pin the ric-rac in place wherever it’s being used. You can now shorten the length if needed, starting with the last row you worked, by undoing your bind off, and gently pulling out the stitches until you reach the desired length. Bind off again. Repeat with the lower rows. Stitch in place using a neat slipstitch, along the top and bottom of the trim using a coordinating thread. And you're done! Let us know how you get on and don’t forget to tag us in your makes, we'd love to know how you use this trim! @little.fig.handmade on Instagram, and @littlefigstore on Facebook. - Michelle x

Little Fig asked me recently if I’d make her a new Cora cardigan, and would I make it with “rainbow bobbles instead of plain ones”. She then raided the wool cupboard and chose her combination! I’ve never knit popcorn (bobble) stitch in a contrast colour before, and I’m always up for learning something new, so I thought I’d give it a go. I took some photos as I was working and thought it might be helpful to share them here, with a few notes on how they were worked. So, the first step – work to the stitch that you want to work your bobble. Instead of inserting the needle into the stitch itself (and this is the most important part that’s different from a normal bobble stitch), insert it into the stitch in the row below. This is because we need a foundation stitch for the bobble that is in the colour of the bobble itself, so it doesn’t show. Knit into this stitch with the bobble colour, then slip this stitch back on to the left needle. Now work your bobble into this new coloured stitch. Bobbles can be worked in lots of different ways, but for the Cora cardigan, they’re worked like this: KTFB twice, then into front again (5 stitches), then work 4 rows stocking stitch, starting on the wrong side with a purl row. Then pass stitches 2-5 over stitch 1. Now return to the main knitting colour, and work quite tightly into the next stitches, until you reach the net stitch for a bobble, then repeat. Carry the bobble yarn across the back, twisting it in every 3rd stitch, to keep floats short. Unfortunately, you will have some loose ends to sew in, at each end of every bobble row, but it’s worth it for a fab result! If you are using a natural yarn, then it’s also really worth the time and effort to wet & block your garment. When the bobbles are knitted, they can be a little “oval” in shape, and I like to make them nice and round. Whilst the garment is damp, I use the rounded top end of a pencil, and push this in from the back of the bobble. I use my fingers to shape the bobble over the end of the pencil. Then when the garment is flat and pinned, I go over and just squish the bobbles to make them more rounded, then leave the garment to be completely dry. If you’d like to make our Cora cardigan, then here’s the link to the childrens version, and here’s the adults version. Or you can buy both patterns together in a discounted bundle just here . If you do try out this technique, be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! We'd love to see what you create! - Michelle

All of our sewing patterns come with a A4 Print Cut and Stick and an A0 Copyshop Printing File. Here's a quick guide on how to use both types of file... Copyshop Files If you're printing a copyshop file, then it's as simple as sending the file to a copyshop for a personal printed copy on one big sheet - much like a 'traditional' paper sewing pattern, but on stronger paper! If you request for all the layers to be printed, then you could use this as a master copy and trace off the pattern pieces in the size you want to use separately. Then you can re-use the pattern lots of times in multiple sizes. Or, you can get it printed using one size layer, for the one size printed as whole pattern pieces. Below is an example of a section of one of our A0 pattern files... We recommend using a local printing company to get the best price, quickest turnaround and to support local! Sometimes companies will not print a file if you are not the original pattern author - if you encounter any issues with this, pop us a message and we can recommend some places to get your patterns printed. A4 Print, Cut and Stick Files These are our 'standard' PDF files. We include instructions on how to put these together on every pattern, but just incase you've misplaced this or want to see how they work before you buy, follow the instructions below! Make sure that you print your pattern at 100%. Don’t select fit to page when printing. Always measure your sample squares to ensure you have printed at the correct size. If you are struggling to see the colour lines, print the pattern in Black and White or Grayscale. All printers will vary slightly so print a test page first to check the colours and sizing. 1. Print pattern at 100%. Do not select fit to page. 2. Measure the 2cm x 2cm or 1” x 1” square to check the accuracy of the printing. 3. Cut off the excess white edge along the patterns where you will be joining them, this will make them a little easier to line up. 4. Join the edges of the circles and line up the pattern pages. Stick in place with glue or tape. 5. Cut out your desired size based on measurements. Hopefully this has given you a little bit more of an idea about how the different types of file work, that are included when you purchase one of our PDF Sewing Patterns! - Charis & Michelle x

This stocking is a great last minute Christmas project - it can be sewn in an hour or less! Perhaps you have a new family member, or a new pet who needs a stocking - this make is perfect for you to whip up on an afternoon. Going by my personal record of forgetting things until the last minute - I have made this super easy for you with a pattern and photo instructions! Download the Christmas Stocking Pattern here. You Will Need: · 0.5m Outer Fabric · 0.5m Lining Fabric · 0.25m Stocking Cuff Fabric · Stocking Pattern · A basic sewing machine (or a needle and thread if hand sewing/fabric glue) · Sharp scissors, or a rotary cutter and mat · Pins or quilting clips · Iron · Hand sewing needle · Coordinating threads · Approx 15cm ribbon or bias binding for hanging loop · A button (optional) · Interfacing/wadding (optional) *Tip* If you want to make the stocking bigger or smaller, simply adjust the scale before printing on your print menu settings. Method: *Note - all pattern pieces include a 1 cm seam allowance, and should be sewn with such unless otherwise stated* · Cut out all of the stocking pattern pieces from your fabric – you should have 1 pair of outer stocking pieces, 1 pair of lining pieces and two cuff pieces. If you are going to interface the stocking or use wadding, apply it now before constructing your stocking. · Place the long edge of your stocking cuff right sides together with the top of one of your outer stocking pieces. Pin in place and sew along using a 1cm seam allowance. · Repeat with the other long edge of the cuff with the lining stocking piece. You will end up with a long double stocking shape like below – make sure the toes of both of the stocking pieces are facing the same way! · If you want to add personalisation to your stocking like a name or initials, ensure the writing Is placed as below so that it is the right way up when you fold the cuff. It should be on the upper half of the cuff piece. · Press all of the seams to the middle of the shape. Trim/pink the excess seam allowance to reduce bulk, · Repeat with the other stocking pieces. · Place the two long stocking pieces right sides together on top of each other, and pin in place. Sew around the shape using a 1cm seam allowance. Leave approximately a 5cm gap on the flat part of the stocking foot on the lining pieces to turn through. Be sure to back stitch when starting and finishing to leave the gap. · Trim down the seam allowance using pinking shears or scissors to reduce bulk. · Turn out the stocking shape through the gap left in the lining foot. Press to neaten and hand sew the gap in the lining shut, · Push the lining stocking piece inside the main stocking, making sure the toes of the stocking are tucked away inside each other. Your stocking will look like this at the top. · Fold over the cuff of your stocking and decide the positioning of your hanging loop. Fold your ribbon as below and secure with a line of stitching. To conceal the stitching, you can use a button hand sewn over the top. If you do make our Christmas Stocking, be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! We'd love to see what you create! - Charis

Hot water bottles are a great way to quickly get your body warm, or to apply heat to sore muscles and aches and pains. Our favourite way to warm up with one is under a blanket on the sofa or by popping one in bed about 10 minutes before you get in to take off the chill! We’ve created two fabulous knitted hot water bottle cover patterns for you – one free to download here – our Cable Knit Hot Water Bottle Cover and a traditional fair isle pattern for those who like a bit more of a challenge – Fairisle Hot Water Bottle Cover. These would make great Christmas presents, or look good made in colours to compliment your home décor if you’re making one for yourself. We got our inner from ASDA here Cream Hot Water Bottle 1.7L | Home | George at ASDA but similar are available in other supermarkets! Remember to stay safe when using your jazzy new hot water bottle, here’s a few tips; · Never fill with boiling water – this can compromise the structure of the rubber and make it prone to leaks or splits. Boil the kettle and allow the water to cool slightly. · Fill slowly to avoid splashes. · Don’t overfill – ¾ full is best, otherwise it can burst. · Tighten the stopper securely – you don’t want it to leak or come undone. Don’t secure too tightly though as this can cause the material to split. · Remove from the bed before you get inside, especially in the case of small children or the elderly who cannot move away from the hot water bottle as quickly or easily. · Always look for the British Safety Standard BS1970 mark on the hot water bottle. · Replace every 2-3 years (you can use your cover on the new inner!) If you do make our Cable Hot Water Bottle Cover or our Fair Isle Cover, be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! We'd love to see what you create! - Michelle

As the nights grow colder - and the energy bills rise, we thought we would share one of our favourite scrap-busting projects, which also happens to be an essential for keeping those cold draughts at bay. This a great beginners project, and could be done with no sewing - or could even be hand sewn if you wanted a sofa project! I whipped this one up in 20 minutes max from cutting, sewing, stuffing and finishing. You Will Need: Fabric - You'll need a piece of fabric roughly 125cm x 30cm wide. We recommend measuring your doorframe as described below to work out the exact amount you need as door width can differ A basic sewing machine (or a needle and thread if hand sewing/fabric glue) Sharp scissors, or a rotary cutter and mat Pins or quilting clips Iron Hand sewing needle Coordinating threads Stuffing materials - ideally shredded to avoid being lumpy. Use fabric/wool scraps, old clothes, old (clean!) socks, rice, sand, wadding, toy stuffing, old pillow or duvet filling, dried lentils, foam peanuts or packaging, balled up paper or even dry cat litter! We used fabric and wool scraps to stuff ours! Method: *Note - all pattern pieces include a 1 cm seam allowance, and should be sewn with such unless otherwise stated* Measure your doorframe. Align the tape measure with the outer side of the door frame and take the width measurement. Add a few cm onto each side of the frame measurement, to account for seam allowance and to create an overlap to cover the whole width of the door. E.g. My door width measures 98cm including the frame. 98cm + 8cm (4cm each side overhang) + 2cm (1cm seam allowance each side) = 108cm wide The height of your pattern piece will need to be approximately 32cm high. Cut out your measurements from your fabric. My panel measured 108cm x 32cm. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together, and pin around the raw edges. Stitch around the raw edges, leaving a 5cm gap in the top raw long edge, being sure to back stitch when you stop and restart. Trim the corners off to make turning out easier. Turn out through the gap you left in the top seam, Poke the corners out carefully with a knitting needle or skewer. Press. Stuff the empty draught excluder tube with your choice of filling, pushing the inner to the corners and edges. If you find it is getting a little lumpy, massage the filling down the tube. Hand sew closed the opening you left. And you're done! If you do make our Draught Excluder - be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! - Charis

Every kids wardrobe needs a practical pair of shorts - and these simple, unisex and super comfy elasticated waist shorts are perfect for whipping up in an afternoon! In this tutorial we’ll be showing you how to sew up our free simple shorts pattern, which you can download for free on our website - Free Simple Children’s Shorts Pattern. Please check out our paid Ashley Unisex Shorts Pattern for some more great beginner-friendly techniques on a more advanced pair of shorts! *Get 25% off our Ashley Shorts Pattern with this code - SHORTS25 at checkout. If you're comfortable with our beginner level Simple Shorts Pattern below, then the Ashley shorts are a great step up with pockets, waistband and side ties - again in a unisex style! * This pattern is super quick to make, and all sizes under 4-5 years can be made using just two fat quarters - sizes above will need between ½ - ¾ of a metre. These are also great for upcycling old trousers or skirts (adults trousers usually have the width across the thighs just right for the front and back of this pattern!), and if you make them from a cotton fabric or similar, can be really easily washed and dried, perfect for summer and taking on holiday! This is a great beginners project, and experienced makers will love how easy and quick they are to stitch up! Follow our guide on how to put together our PDF Sewing Patterns here! Below is the size chart for the shorts pattern - this is to fit measurements, not the measurements of the final garment. You Will Need: Fabric (see amounts above) A basic sewing machine Sharp scissors, or a rotary cutter and mat Pinking shears Pins or quilting clips Iron Hand sewing needle Tape measure Coordinating thread - machine spools 2cm/2.5cm wide elastic for the waistband Method: *Note - all pattern pieces include a 1 cm seam allowance, and should be sewn with such unless otherwise stated* 1. Cut out all of your pattern pieces. You should have; 1 x pair of front shorts 1 x pair of back shorts 2. Take your matching front and back main shorts pieces and pin together down the long side seam, and the shorter inner leg seam. 3. Stitch in place using a 1cm seam allowance. 4. Overlock or zig zag the seams to finish them. 5. Next you need to sew the legs together. You can simply match up the crotch points and pin the two legs together, or - turn the right leg so the wrong side is facing out, and leave the left leg facing right side out. Put the left leg inside the right leg. The right sides of the legs should be together if using this method. 6. Stitch in place using a 1cm seam allowance. 7. Overlock or zig zag the seams to finish them. 8. Fold the hem up 1cm, press, then fold up another 1cm and press again. Stitch in place using a 1cm seam allowance. 9. Repeat for the other shorts leg. 10. Fold over the top of the waistband of the shorts by 1cm, press, then a further 3cm and press again. Topstitch in place along the fold. Leave a gap a few cm long to insert the waistband elastic. 11. Cut the elastic to length, using your child's waist measurement for the most comfortable fit. Insert the waistband elastic through the hole, and secure the ends of the elastic with a line of stitching. Tuck the elastic inside the waistband hole, and topstitch the opening closed. And you're done! If you do make our Simple Children’s Shorts Pattern , be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade -also check out our Ashley Unisex Shorts Pattern for some more great beginner-friendly techniques on a more advanced pair of shorts! - Charis

Whenever we go to a certain supermarket, we always have to check we have an extra trolley coin so that we can get a mini trolley for our shopping companion, Little Fig herself. She’s at an age where she just loves to do everything the grown ups do, especially shopping! So I made a quick little crochet bag for her, and when we pack the shopping, she has somewhere to carry her own little treat purchases. It’s made in rainbow stripes, as apparently rainbows are the “most prettiest thing”, and I’ve used Drops Paris cotton, so it can just be thrown in the washing machine if needed. Give this free pattern a try for yourself by downloading it here - Crochet Rainbow Children's Shopping Bag PDF Pattern! It would also be easy enough to create a longer foundation chain and make a matching adult size one too, or use something a bit sturdier and more fancy to make a little bag for yourself in this size. And if you don’t think rainbows are the “most prettiest thing”, then you can ignore the yarn changes and work it all in one colour! If you do make our Rainbow Crochet Children's Shopping Bag be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade ! We'd love to see the colour combos you create! - Michelle

We're excited to announce that we've created a group on Facebook - just for discussing all things related to Little Fig Handmade Patterns - knitting, crochet and sewing! Maybe you need a little help or advice with one of our patterns? Or want some general sewing, knitting or crochet advice? Or maybe you just want to show off anything you have made from a #littlefighandmade pattern! Join us over there by following this link and answering a few questions! We're excited to meet you and see what you've been making! - Charis & Michelle x

Use our FREE Detachable Peter Pan Collar Pattern to change up and restyle your outfits! Removable collars are a great way to give the illusion of wearing a patterned blouse, without having to commit to making a whole garment. They can also be an inexpensive way to brighten up your wardrobe and stay on top of trends, without buying new clothes! In this blog post i'll be sharing step by step how to sew this Peter Pan Collar, from a bright Watermelon Print Quilting Cotton. If you want to try a different style collar, we also have our bundle collar pattern here, which features several different views and extras you can add! Open the PDF in Adobe Reader, and print in A4. Don't forget to make sure that your printing scale is set to actual size or 100%. Measure the test square if you aren't sure! You can also scale up or down this pattern by printing at different % sizes, perfect for creating collars for kids, toys or even quick dress up options. Trim the borders on the pattern and join the sheets, lining up the circles and edges, and tape or glue together. Fabric Requirements: 1m / 1y chosen fabric All conversions to inches and yards are approximate. Fabric suggestions - Lightweight wovens, such as; Lawn, Broadcloth, Linen, Seersucker and some Cotton types such as Poplin and Quilting Cottons. For stripes, directional prints and pattern matching you will require extra fabric You Will Need: Tools: A basic sewing machine Sharp scissors, or a rotary cutter and mat Pinking shears Pins or quilting clips Iron Hand sewing needle Fabric pen Ruler Notions: Coordinating thread Approx 50cm lightweight interfacing (if your fabric is lightweight and you want the collar to have structure) Approx 50cm Bias binding (option) Constructing the Peter Pan Collar *Note - all pattern pieces include a 1 cm seam allowance, and should be sewn with such unless otherwise stated* 1. Cut out all of your pattern pieces. You should have; 2 x main collar 2 x tie panels or bias binding 1 x main collar from interfacing (if required) 2. If you are using bias binding, skip to step 5. Fold one short end of the neck tie trips under 1cm, press. Fold the strips in half lengthways, with wrong sides together, making a crease down the centre. 3. Unfold and fold in the outer raw edges to meet the centre crease. Press in place. 4. Fold the strip in half again lengthways and press, to enclose the raw edges. 5. Top stitch along the tie strips to secure the edges and create the tie. 6. Place the ties on the right side of the collar pieces, at the front neck of the collar. Pin in place about 1cm down from the neckline. 7. Tack in place using a 0.5cm seam allowance, using a long machine stitch. 8. Place the other main collar piece on top of the other piece, sandwiching the ruffles and the ties in the middle. 9. Pin in place and stitch around using a 1cm seam allowance. Leave a 7cm gap at the back neck to turn out the collar. 10. Trim the seam allowance down. Turn out the collar through the hole you left. 11. Push the collar corners out using a knitting needle or a blunt pencil, and make sure the collar is flat, press, tucking in the seam allowance at the hole you left to create a neat edge. 12. Slipstitch the gap you left closed by hand, or topstitch around the whole of the outer collar. Give the collar a nice press with lots of steam, and you're done! If you do make our Peter Pan Collar, be sure to tag us on social media @little.fig.handmade -also check out our Collar Bundle Pattern, for more different collar styles to add to your wardrobe! - Charis Little Fig Patterns All rights reserved 2022. This pattern is for personal use only. You can print this pattern for your own use, but cannot distribute for free or resell electronically or by hard copy. All rights to sell the finished garment are also retained by the pattern writer. Any garments produced from this pattern cannot be sold, unless permission from pattern writer, Charis Willcox-Reid at Little Fig, is obtained.

I absolutely love making and receiving handmade decorations for the Christmas tree - there’s something so special about each ornament having a story, or knowing it has been made with care and love! I also enjoy cross stitch, and it is a fun and relaxing way to unwind on an evening - especially in the run up to Christmas when you want to craft, but also want to stay cosied up on the sofa. My guilty pleasure this last month or so has been cross stitching and hand sewing in front of Downton Abbey on Netflix! This ornament is a quick and easy make, perfect as an addition to your tree, or as a gift for friends and family (if you can bear to part with them!), and uses a small amount of aida, felt and fabric scraps for stuffing. Download the chart below and read on to get started! You will need: 15cm x 15cm piece of aida 15cm x 15cm piece of felt Ribbon (cut to desired length) Embroidery floss in red and green Small metal bell (optional) Fabric scraps or toy stuffing Basic sewing kit Sewing machine (optional) Graph paper Vellum or tracing paper (optional) Download the chart here Step 1 Stitch your design, following the chart. Trim and secure any loose threads in the back of the design. Step 2 Create the template to trim your aida. I used graph paper to make a trapezium 12cm tall, and then 4.5cm at the top, and 10cm at the base. I then joined the sides. I traced this shape onto some vellum to make positioning the design centrally easier. Trace around the shape. Step 3 Trim the ribbon to the desired length and pin in place centrally, right sides together on the aida piece. Step 4 Pin the felt piece, right sides together on top of your aida piece, sandwiching the ribbon in between. Step 5 Machine stitch or hand sew around the edge using a 1cm seam allowance. Leave a gap for turning on the long bottom edge of the decoration. Step 6 Turn the decoration out, poke out the corners and press using a pressing cloth. Step 7 Chop up your fabric scraps fairly small, and use this to stuff the decoration. Step 8 Slip stitch the base closed. To finish, tie a bow with a small bell attached to the hanging ribbon of the decoration. And your decoration is complete! I think these would look great in a variety of colours, whatever matches your Christmas decor best. Be sure to share and tag us in your makes from this pattern! - Charis

A little while ago we shared a knitwear care guide with our email subscribers - but as we get lots of questions on how to care for our knitwear, we've decided to share it here too! Knitwear can last a long time, and is actually fairly easy to care for with a few products and a little time! The best part is that unless it's soiled, you can actually get away without washing it very often, as Wool is naturally self cleaning! Read on to find out what to do when you do need to clean your knitwear.... Many yarns today carry washing instructions that say they can be machine washed. However we feel that when so much time, love and care has been put into handknitting our garments, when we are asked for washing advice for handknits, we always recommend hand-washing. Sometimes people are put off buying handwash clothing, but it’s really quite easy to care for them. If you buy one of our handknits it will most likely be 100% natural fibres. This means that nature has already done most of the hard work for you in keeping the garment clean. Knitwear made from natural fibres doesn’t need washing very often at all. Of course, if it’s stained with food, or in the case of baby knits, usually milk, then it needs to be washed. Other than this, knitwear can be worn many times before it requires a wash. This is because it contains a substance called lanolin, which works like a dirt repellant and self cleaning agent on the fibres. So here’s how we wash our own handknits; 1. Fill the sink or washing up bowl with the correct dilution of washing detergent and cool water. 2. Submerge the garment in the water, and ensure the water has soaked into all parts of the garment. 3. Leave to soak for about 10 minutes. 4. If your detergent is a “no-rinse” detergent, just gently squeeze the water from the garment. If a rinse is required, then just empty the bowl, refill with just cool water, submerge the garment again and ensure all suds are loosened from the garment, before squeezing the water out again. 5. Lay the garment it flat on a dry towel. It may be a little misshapen at this stage!thats OK, we can deal with this later! 6. Roll the garment up inside the towel, like a Swiss Roll,then “squish” the roll gently to remove some more water. 7. Unroll the towel, and now you can put right any misshaping of the garment. What you do with the garment at this stage can make a huge difference to the life of your garment, it can be gently pulled back into shape, legs and sleeves pulled out, collars uncurled etc. 8. Then just leave to dry on the towel in a warm place, away from the direct sunlight (if you leave natural fibres in the sun they will yellow). And that’s it! Once it’s dry you can give the garment some TLC, gently picking off bobbles, or pulling through any woven-in ends that are now poking out on the garment. We don’t like to recommend any one particular detergent, we’ve tried pretty much all of those on the market, and there isn’t really a great deal of difference, and you will have different requirements anyway, for example whether you have sensitive skin or whether you’d prefer to have fragranced or fragrance-free. For a visual guide, check out our reel on Instagram @littlefigstore! - Michelle x

Piles and piles of toys used to be popular at Christmas, but even more than ever, people are looking to buy smaller, more sustainably and more thoughtfully during the holidays. We've put together a guide full of special gifts for Children, that will go perfectly with those special toy purchases. When buying for Children, here's an easy formula to follow if you want to keep things a little more simple - Something they want: a big ticket item, usually branded toys (Fig has circled the entire Smyths catalogue so a few specific things will be chosen!). Something they need: might be a hobby item, sports equipment or clothing, stationery, toiletries. Something to wear: a new Christmas outfit, a new pair of boots or shoes, festive pyjamas, or some new basic clothes. Something to read: a book, magazine subscription, activity books. Something homemade or handmade: a special toy or accessory that you purchase handmade or something you make at home. This guide will give a few ideas for all of these suggestions from small businesses, read on for some festive inspiration! Hearts & Smiles Handmade Instagram: @heartsandsmiles_handmade Hearts & Smiles is run by Sam and Milly, a mum and daughter team creating primarily delicious smelling whipped soaps and fun shaped bath bombs, but they also have some adorable crochet accessories! Everything is handmade by them, and their bathbombs especially are visually impressive, smell amazing and are gentle on skin. They also have a new range of festive products available! Bee & Bear Instagram: @beeandbearboutique Bee & Bear create comfortable and cute clothes for little ones, in a range of fun Cotton Jersey. We love these prints from their festive drop - and they can be used to make a wide range of different items of clothing for you to order! These prints aren’t strictly Christmas and so can be worn all Winter long - and you know how we love pieces with longevity! Mojo & Co Instagram: @mojoandco_preloved_kids Mojo & Co sell pre-loved childrens clothes - they stock a wide variety of branded childrenswear and accessories, all in excellent condition. Their aim is to reduce waste, get more life from pre-loved clothes, and make branded clothing accessible for all budgets. We love this concept so much, and it would be a great way to buy a special Christmas outfit without having to spend a lot of money. They also stock a lot of Little Bird and Scandi brands which can be hard to get hold of pre-loved, so be sure to get in quick with purchases! Time Flies for Kids Instagram: @timefliesforkids Time Flies for Kids is run by Jill and Lucy, who design and create educational (and most importantly fun!) activity packs for children. They offer a wide range of activities and inspiration from baking, to mindfulness with children, which are perfect when you are lost for ideas on a rainy day, or have exhausted all usual activities in the holidays! We think one of these activity packs would be the perfect gift to keep children entertained when visiting family over the festive period. Bead Stars Studio Instagram: @bead_stars Louisa creates quality jewelry making kits that are designed with children in mind. They would make the perfect gift for an older child or teenager to make up themselves, or for a slightly younger child to make with help. All of the kits include everything you need to design your own jewelry, and make it up, meaning you don’t need to purchase any extras. Again these would make the perfect gift to keep children busy over the festive period and can be packed away easily in the box provided so you don’t lose anything! Tilly Floss Creations Instagram: @tillyflosscreations Tilly Floss Creations makes hand poured, personalised and seasonal shaped crayons and chalks, as well as activity sets and kits. They have lovely Christmas crayon sets, which would be great to include in an advent calendar or stocking, and personalised sets which would make a special gift if you have a name that you can never normally buy on personalised things! And finally, of course there’s us here at Little Fig! Everything is handmade by just us two, with really careful use of resources, made with love and care. We’re always happy to chat with you, if you can’t decide what to buy - just send us a little message and we’d love to help. We hope you got a few unique ideas for children’s gifts from this guide, and have discovered some new small businesses! - Charis & Michelle

More than ever, recent events have shown how important it is to shop small, local and with purpose, and as we are lucky enough to be connected to so many wonderful small businesses, we wanted to be able to share some Christmas gifting ideas from a few of our favourites. We'll be publishing several guides, all aimed at different people you might need to buy for - and this was probably one of our favourites to compile - gifts aimed at the crafters in your life! Read on for some inspiration for those who enjoy knitting, crochet, calligraphy, paper craft, journalling, sewing, and general craftiness! Art Star London Instagram: @ art_star_london Jo is a graphic designer who creates eco-friendly paper craft kits, in some beautiful print options. The kits are a perfect mindfulness activity and the end result would make a lovely decoration for Christmas, or all year round. They also sell 'Hack Packs', which are a bigger pack of materials, made up of leftover paper from the printing industry. These contain 12 pre-cut sheets in different colours, which can be made up into these gorgeous stars, or used in other projects. For every Hack Pack sold, Jo donates one to a kid's art club! Sew Yarnilicious Instagram: @sewyarnilicious Sew Yarnilicious make gorgeous bags and accessories for knitters and crocheters. Each bag is handmade by pre-order or to order, and they offer a wide range of prints and designs - there's something for any taste. Dye and Knit By Kate Instagram: @dyeandknitbykate Kate hand-dyes a range of yarn types, in stunning colour blends. The yarn is the perfect weight for socks and we've enjoyed knitting it up so much, as the resulting colour effect really varies depending on what you are knitting up and what stitch you use! She also has a wide range of colours available, whether you like neutral naturals, sugary pastels, deep galaxy shades, or seasonal colour ways. Higgs & Higgs Instagram: @higgsandhiggs You may have heard of Higgs & Higgs if you love sewing, and we are lucky enough that this business is local to us, so we get to support this small business frequently for personal projects. We love their new bundles and think these would be a great gift for someone who is just starting to sew, or for someone who would appreciate some coordinates to add to their stash. Wallace Lettering Instagram: @wallacelettering Helen is an illustrator and calligrapher, who runs workshops on brush lettering and modern calligraphy. She also sells calligraphy kits for you to practice at home. A place on one of her workshops or her kits would be the perfect gift for someone who wants to take their journalling or paper-crafting to the next level. Knitted by LW Instagram: @knitted_by_lw Lucy not only makes gorgeous chunky knit home accessories, but she also runs frequent 'arm-knitting' workshops (these can be booked as gifts!), and offers kits for you to make things at home. Her workshops are suitable even for beginners, so they would be the perfect gift for someone crafty who wants to try something a little different, and the result is a luxurious arm knit chunky blanket. British Stamp Maker Instagram: @britishstampmaker British Stamp Maker sell handmade eco-rubber stamps, with a variety of different motif/text options, and they even offer a custom design service! The handle/back of the stamp is made from reclaimed wood and they come in a little stamped bag, which would make a cute gift. We think this alphabet set would be perfect for someone who enjoys journalling, scrapbooking or snail mail, and the mini stamps with the option of a logo or a phrase like 'Handmade with love' would be perfect for someone who enjoys sewing and wants to add a professional and personal touch to garments they make. Pom Stitch Tassel Instagram: @pomstitchtassel Emma creates bright and fun pom-pom kits, party packs and other pom-pom related crafts. We especially love how these could be made with some help from the kids, and that the pom pom maker included could be used again and again in the future once you have the hang of it! The 12 days of Christmas Kit would be perfect to gift to a family as an activity, or even to put in an advent calendar or Christmas Eve box. We hope you've gathered a few ideas from this guide, and that you enjoy looking through what these small businesses have to offer, as much as we did! - Charis & Michelle

Pumpkin picking is a fairly new tradition for us - but we had an absolutely fabulous time picking out some lovely ones at Over Farm in Gloucestershire. We found some perfect for carving that are currently taking up every free surface in the house - but all of us are looking forward to lots of pumpkin soup. Fig took the opportunity to wear her Pumpkin Hat (we're no longer taking orders for these, but if you're crafty then check out our Pumpkin Hat Beanie PDF Knitting Pattern - you've got just enough time to whip one up before Halloween and they look great all Autumn) and her NICKY Jacket, and we felt inspired to put together a little pumpkin picking look-book, as we know how important it is to look cool and cosy at the pumpkin patch. For little ones who aren't walking (but who also happen to look super cute posing with pumpkins), we love our cosy FINLEY romper, with tights, a long sleeve vest and one of our Winter Berry Cardigans. Top off the look with a pair of Cotton Pram Shoes (we have lots of different colour and appliqué options) and a Corduroy Oakley Pixie Bonnet to keep those little heads warm. We think a cute gnome vibe would be a hit at the pumpkin patch! This look is the same as what Fig was sporting at the patch this week - she paired her NICKY Jacket, with a Pumpkin Hat, some jeans and a polo (both models own). For an even cosier outfit, swap out the jeans for our BOBBIE Denim Overlock Dungarees, and you have the perfect retro Autumnal vibe. And finally, another look perfect for both boys and girls, we have our Pumpkin hats again, teamed with our GEORGE Jumbo Cord Trousers (which are the perfect colour for disguising those mud patches everyone seems to attract when rambling through a field!), one of our Upcycled SAGE Shirts, and for extra warmth, our Felix Waistcoat. This look is perfect for a warmer Autumn day, and could be layered further for a cute cosy look. These are just a couple of ideas for outfits from some of our favourite Autumnal pieces. Not only are these pieces cute and will look great in photos - they're also comfortable, made from natural materials, and perfect for exploring in too! Most importantly though, don't forget to have fun and get very muddy picking a barrow full of pumpkins! And of course if you have time create a delicious pumpkin soup with the carving waste, and leave the outer pumpkin in the garden for the wildlife to enjoy. -Charis, Michelle & Fig

Well we’ve finally got round to doing it - starting our own website blog! We’ve always wanted a space to share our goings on, and give you some ideas and inspiration along the way. We’re planning to both write our own contributions, share some making ideas and patterns, and perhaps even host some sew-alongside and knit-alongs. So this first post is just to say hello, we hope you’ll follow along with our little adventure, and keep up to date with all the new things we’ve got planned for the future.